Eartheasy offers
great information about sustainable living and gardening. The following excerpts are from their website
and offer great gardening ideas for early spring.
Vegtables and
Flowers
(1) Plant early
spring vegetables when soil is workable.
Soil is ready for
gardening once it is free of ice crystals and crumbles easily. Soil that is too
wet is easily compacted, reducing beneficial soil aeration. Common early spring
crops are peas, spinach, lettuces and leeks. For a prolonged harvest, plant
several varieties, each with a different maturation date. Follow these crops
with broccoli, cabbage, radishes, kale, turnips, new potatoes and onions. Mulch
early bulbs if you live in areas where freezing temperatures hang on.
(2) Protect
seedlings from hard frosts.
Early spring
plantings are vulnerable to hard frost which can set in overnight. If you
expect a hard frost, cover seedlings overnight with anything you have on hand -
an overturned bucket or cardboard box (with a rock on top) or large flower pot,
a portable garden cloche, or a cold frame. If your garden has the space, and
your budget allows, a starter greenhouse is ideal for starting seedlings early
in the season and protecting them from inconsistent early spring weather.
(3) Plant out daffodils, lilies, crocus, hyacinth
and any other bulbs,
Early spring is
the time to set out bulbs which were forced in pots or bowls in the house. Some
may bloom next spring, others may take two or three years to rebuild enough
food reserve to support flowering.
(4) Divide
perennials. clear and mulch perennial beds.
For easier
handling try to time the division so emerging shoots are only 2 to 4 inches
tall. Prepare new beds for perennial flowers by spreading a 6-inch deep layer
of organic matter (i.e. peat moss, compost, rotted manure) and work in deeply.
Plants growing in deep, rich soil are less likely to suffer from summer
drought. Existing perennial beds can be cleared of old plant debris and mulched
to prevent weed growth. Mulch should be applied around, but not over the
sprouting root mass of each plant.
Stakes can also be
put in the ground now for sprouting perennials such as asparagrus, which may need
support for it's tall ferns later in the season in gardens exposed to wind. Be
sure to set the stakes well clear of the root mass so as not to disturb
emerging shoots.
Shrubs and trees
(1) Prune
out dead or damaged branches
Prune unwanted
branches of trees and shrubs after new growth has begun. Cut back any remaining
dead perennial foliage from last season. Prune roses just before they start to
bud out. Spring blooming trees and shrubs, however, should not be pruned in
late winter; their flower buds are ready to open as temperatures warm. Azaleas,
forsythia, weigela, dogwood, and other spring shrubs can be pruned.
(2) Prune fruit trees.
Fruit tree pruning
is best done in late winter or early spring. Prune well before buds begin to
break into bloom or the tree may be stressed resulting in a reduced crop. Pick
up and remove the pruned clippings, especially if you intend to cut the grass
under the tree during summer.
(3) Remove stakes
or relax wires installed on trees planted last fall.
Allowing a little
swaying of tree stems results in sturdy yet resilient plants. Thin out some
branches of trees which have a history of leaf spot diseases. Pruning will
improve air circulation and penetration of sunlight, which in turn can reduce
the incidence of disease. Remove tree guards or burlap wraps from the trunks of
young trees or shrubs. This prevents moisture buildup beneath the wrap, which
can encourage rot and promote entry of diseases.
(3) Transplant any existing shrubs you want to
move before they begin to leaf out.
Soil conditions in
early spring are favorable to transplants because the soil is more consistently
moist, which helps new rooting to expand from the transplant zone and reach out
for more nutrients. To transplant, use a spade to find the edges of the main
root mass, then dig down and under to loosen the root ball. Dig the new hole
several inches wider all around, and add soil amendments such as compost or
organic fertilizer. Once the transplant is set in place, filling in around the
sides with lightly compacted soil will promote lateral root growth.
(4) Apply horticultural oil sprays to pear and
apple trees.
Apply oil spray to
pears just as the buds begin to swell and then again 10 days later to control
pear psylla and pear leaf blister mite. Make a single application of oil on
apple trees when a half-inch of green tissue is visible in developing buds.
(5) Also
apply oil to ornamental trees and shrubs
Apply dormant oil
to trees and shrubs which have a history of aphid, scale or spider mite
infestations. Destroying these pests safely with spring applications of
horticultural oil will reduce your need for pesticides later in the growing
season.
(6) Inspect your pole pruner before using
Before setting
foot on the orchard ladder take a few minutes to inspect the head of the pruner
and the cord. If there is a failure of any parts while you are pruning, it
could send you for a tumble. Read our article Pre-Season Pole Pruner Checklist.
More information
like this can be found at the Eartheasy website: https://eartheasy.com/
